Reviled by some, worshiped by others, the one thing that remains certain about the durian amidst all the controversy is that it there's absolutely nothing else like it on the face of the earth.

"It is neither acid nor sweet nor juicy; yet it wants neither of these qualities, for it is in itself perfect...the more you eat of it the less you feel inclined to stop. In fact, to eat durians is a new sensation worth a voyage to the East to experience."

-Alfred Russel Wallace

"Your breath will smell as if you'd been french-kissing your dead grandmother."

-Anthony Bourdain

As these quotes suggest, there's no middle-ground when it comes to the durian. Protected by a thick, hard husk and inch-long spikes, the fleshy sections of the fruit give off an unmistakable and pungent smell. The flavour of the fruit itself is another thing entirely, though. Strong bitter overtones soon give way to a seemingly limitless spread of smoother, sweeter flavours beneath: strawberry, custard, butterscotch, banana.

Much in the same way that wine or scotch appreciation becomes a lifelong and rewarding hobby for some, durian connoisseurs develop tastes for their own preferred varieties (or cultivars) of the fruit, and will travel to restaurants specializing in diverse durian menus to compare tastes and textures and to discover new, hidden subtleties and flavours.

Whatever your reaction to the durian may be, eating it for the first time promises to be an unforgettable experience.